AE AE & AC (08) 9249 8619

Dual Battery Systems in Perth

A dual battery system that is designed around what you actually run, and wired so it holds up on corrugations — installed at our Malaga workshop.

Malaga workshop Mon–Fri 8:00am–5:00pm Sat 8:00am–12:00pm Auto electrical, AC & mechanical in-house

Getting the design right first

Most dual battery disappointments are design problems, not product problems. Before recommending anything we want to know what you are running and for how long.

  • What the auxiliary battery has to power — fridge, lights, water pump, inverter, charging devices, and anything else.
  • How long between drives. Two nights parked is a different problem to a week in one spot.
  • Whether you want solar input now or later — worth wiring for even if you add the panel afterwards.
  • Whether you tow, and whether the van or trailer has its own system to charge.
  • Your vehicle's charging system. Many modern vehicles use variable voltage or smart alternators, which will not properly charge an auxiliary battery through a simple isolator — those need a DC-DC charger.
  • Where the battery can physically and safely go, and its ventilation requirements.

DC-DC charger or isolator?

Voltage-sensitive isolatorDC-DC charger
How it worksConnects the auxiliary battery to the alternator once the start battery is chargedTakes the vehicle's supply and produces a proper multi-stage charge for the auxiliary battery
SuitsOlder vehicles with a conventional fixed-voltage alternatorModern vehicles with smart or variable-voltage alternators, and lithium or AGM auxiliaries
Charges the auxiliary fully?Often not, particularly on newer vehiclesYes, and to the correct profile for the battery chemistry
SolarSeparate controller neededMany units accept solar input directly

On most vehicles sold in the last decade or so, a DC-DC charger is the right answer. If someone quotes you a simple isolator for a modern vehicle, ask how the auxiliary battery will reach full charge.

Why the wiring matters more than the brand

The components in a dual battery system are the easy part. What determines whether it works in three years is the installation.

  • Correct cable size for the current and the run length. Undersized cable means voltage drop, poor charging and heat.
  • Fusing at both ends of every unprotected run, close to each battery.
  • Proper crimps and terminations, not twisted joints and tape.
  • Secure mounting of the battery and every component. Corrugations find anything that can move.
  • Loom protection wherever a cable passes a panel edge or a hot surface, with grommets through bulkheads.
  • Sound earthing to a proper chassis point.
  • Clean routing away from exhaust heat and moving parts.

This is auto electrical work, and it is the half of the trade this workshop is named for. A tidy install is not cosmetic — it is the difference between a system that works out past Kalbarri and one that fails there.

What affects the price

We quote after we have looked at the vehicle, because an honest number needs the actual fault rather than a description of it. What moves the price on this kind of work:

  • Diagnostic time. An obvious fault is quick; an intermittent one that only appears when hot, cold or over a bump takes longer to reproduce and confirm.
  • Part cost for your specific vehicle. This varies enormously between makes — European parts are frequently multiples of the equivalent for a common Japanese model.
  • Access. Some components are behind a dash, a subframe or an engine mount. The part can be cheap and the labour the opposite.
  • Whether the fault has caused secondary damage that also needs addressing.
  • Whether coding or calibration is required after fitting.

You get the number before the work starts, and nothing extra happens without you approving it first.

Warranty on this work

Workmanship and parts are covered. The specific period depends on the job and on the part supplier's own warranty, so the terms that apply to your repair are set out on your invoice — ask us to walk you through them before you approve the work if you would like it clear up front.

This sits alongside your rights under Australian Consumer Law, which apply regardless of what any warranty document says.

Frequently asked questions

What is involved in installing a dual battery system?

Working out your power needs, choosing the battery and charging method to suit your vehicle's alternator type, finding a safe and secure mounting location, then running correctly sized and fused cable with proper terminations, protection and earthing. The design conversation comes before any parts are chosen.

Do I need a DC-DC charger or just an isolator?

If your vehicle has a smart or variable-voltage alternator — most vehicles from the last decade or so — you need a DC-DC charger, because an isolator will not fully charge the auxiliary battery. Older fixed-voltage alternators can work with an isolator.

Can you wire it for solar?

Yes, and it is worth doing even if you are adding panels later. Many DC-DC chargers accept solar input directly, which keeps the system simpler than adding a separate controller afterwards.

Where does the second battery go?

It depends on the vehicle and the battery. Under-bonnet, in a tray, in a canopy or in a cargo area are all options, and each has ventilation, heat and mounting considerations. We will talk through what suits your setup.

Can you install a system I've already bought?

Yes. Bring it in and we will tell you honestly whether it suits your vehicle's charging system and your power needs before fitting it — better to hear that first than after.

Other services

Areas we service: Malaga · Morley · Ballajura · Wangara · Bayswater · Midland · Guildford · Ellenbrook · Bassendean · Perth and the wider Perth metropolitan area.

Book your vehicle in

Tell us what the vehicle is doing and we will diagnose it properly. You get the price before the work starts.